Thursday, August 20, 2015

South Africa: Why the Red Dune Route in the Kalahari is such a special place


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Flamingos turn Kalahari pan pink in once-in-a-lifetime spectacle
  • I have been on this route before, not many times, maybe once or twice. For the people of the area, yes it is their everyday road, but for us other folks, not so much. What I do remember of this road, is the stillness and the lack of traffic with every now and then a vehicle coming around a bend, hurriedly on its way somewhere. I am of course talking of the Red Dune Route, the road that runs from Van Zylsrus to Askham and from there to the Kgalagadi National Park.  
The road between Askam and Van Zylsrus

  • The red in the Red Dune Route is derived from the red color of the Kalahari sand of the area. Kalahari sand is not only red but can be brown and white also. At times, the road goes up and over the sand dunes almost in a hypnotic effect; other times it winds leisurely past farm steads and open spaces.  
  • We traveled this road again recently but we started further to the east and followed the road as it runs next to the Botswana border. The road goes through farms and I had the unfortunate pleasure to open and close more than 15 farm gates.

Lion cubs on a typical red dune road

  • The Kalahari stretches from the northern parts of South Africa all the way into Botswana. The South African Park was called the Kalahari Gemsbok Park up and until the Transfrontier Park with Botswana was established. 
  • It is now possible for visitors to cross over from the South African side of the park into the Botswana side. All that is required is a passport, making a booking, and stopping at the border crossing. 
  • Kgalagadi National Park Scenery
  • The standard road to the Kgalagadi National Park has always been via Upington, and still is, and now that that road has been tarred, getting to the Kgalagadi is a breeze. When you are coming from Botswana however, the shortest (albeit not     the quickest) route to the Kgalagadi is with the Red Dune Route. 
Typical landscape near Upington
  • This road has not always been known as the Red Dune Road. When guesthouse owners in and around Askam started to investigate the idea of a tourism route, they coined the name. Tourism is the lifeblood of this area and it makes sense that places of interest will be an additional draw card. The route starts on the R360 not far to the north of Upington and includes Askham, Van Zylsrus, up to the gate at Tweerivieren as well as the R31 and the Mier area. Therefore, depending on your route, the distance can be anything from 300 to 350 km.
    The People of Mier
  • Activities and places of interest include 4x4 trails, hiking, camel/donkey riding, and dune boarding as well as game and bird viewing; learn the ancient art of tracking from a San expert if you dare. The route offers the guest the hospitality and fare of the area along with magnificent sunsets over salt pans. The magic in the first instance is in the solitude and grace of the landscape.
Activities in and around the Red Dune Road
  • You might think that these sand dunes are lifeless but you could not be more wrong; they are full of life if you will only take the time to watch and listen. Many small animals and insects depend on these dunes for their survival. Once the red sand of the Kalahari ran through your fingers or settled on your toes, you will be hooked and like the indigenous San Bushmen whose home it is, you will have no option but to return.
What the Kalahari looks like


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